Fast, French, Fantastique!
Published 12th Mar 2004 by Laura Creasey

Brighton?s Grand Central pub is now offering a taste of France with a new lunch menu that takes its inspiration directly from the streets of Paris. The service is quick, taking into consideration the English lunch hour but that is one of the few concessions to being this side of the Channel. Step into Grand Central and you could easily be stepping off the Boulevard St. Germain. With dark wooden floors and panelling surrounded by clean white walls, the interior is wholly reminiscent of a traditional brasserie or bistro. The menu is not overly ambitious but offers a selection of fish and meat plat de jour standards and an ever-evolving repertoire of specials. Daube of beef, confit of chicken, grilled seabass and a mouthwatering red mullet with mustard crust for example and gourmet vegetarian dishes also find their rightful place on a menu that seeks to make the most of the immense variety of fresh local ingredients including authentic French bread baked down the road, coffees, vegetables, fish and shellfish. All the meals are reasonably priced, the most expensive dish on the menu is fillet of beef with dauphinois potatoes and smoked garlic sauce at ?11.95.

Over the past year Grand Central has become one of Brighton?s most popular places to drink and it isn?t hard to see why. The service is friendly, standards are high and the surroundings are elegant and tasteful. The roof terrace proved enormously popular during the long, hot summer and upstairs now holds the recently restored, historic Nightingale Theatre. Last year the pub received a glowing review in the Sunday Times, declaring the place so inviting, it was at least one good reason to commute from Brighton to London. Given the fact that Grand Central offers free, wireless internet access, leaving for work isn?t strictly necessary. The man responsible for the pub?s success, Darren Elliott, decided on a French theme for the food at Grand Central after a long lunch with a friend who happens to be a Paris chef. Several good bottles of red wine later, he convinced Elliott that it could be done with authenticity in such a venue and voil?! But Elliott remains committed to quality over flamboyance: ?There is no need for complicated sauces or fiddly garnishes,? he says, ?traditional food demands respect as well as swift, friendly service.?

Attention les M?res!
If you know a mum hankering after some authentic French food, wine and champagne in a lovely, buzzing atmosphere, this coming Mother?s Day (Sunday March 21st) Grand Central will be offering a set 2 course meal for ?12 per person.

Food served daily from 11-3pm. Sunday 12-6pm.
Grand Central, 29-30 Surrey Street, Brighton BN1 3PA Tel: 01273 329086.

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