Andrew Kay gets spiritual at L’Eglise and the new great value Lunch Menu
By Amanda Costello 18th Feb 2008

Back in the seventies I was lucky enough to be at the Sex Pistols’ first gig, see the Carpenters live, have lunch with David Hockney and Elizabeth Frink and for a short time study in Paris. In those days I was totally green in the culinary sense, I liked my food but I was very soon out of my depth. It was there in Paris that I had my first artichoke, fish soup and rouille and steak tartare. Of course I took to it comme un poisson à l’eau. If only I had bothered to learn to speak yer actual French eh.

I firmly believe that the best food to be found these days is in Britain, why else would so many of the world’s top international chefs choose to cook here? I also believe that the basic of all good cuisine is in the classic French repertoire. I like nothing more than a good old fashioned French restaurant serving simple dishes and newly opened L’Eglise in deepest Hove is just that.

The look is classic bistro, since the much needed smoking ban it will never attain that yellow patina but in all other senses it is utterly French, as is the menu with a concise selection of traditional dishes and a dish of the day each day as well as specials.

I invited Mr L to come with me as he is a fan of yer actual French too and a seasoned gourmand. We had a quick cocktail in town and then took a taxi to Church Road, the driver already knew the name which has to be a good sign.

Inside was buzzing, it was a Friday but for somewhere so new this was impressive. We ordered a bottle of the red made by the patron’s sister and ate some excellent tapenade whilst reading the menu. What a joy, simple French dishes all of which I would have been happy to eat. Mr L started with a terrine of a deep musky richness that came served with tiny cornichon. I stole a bit and it was great stuff. I could not resist a steak tartare, a lavish serving of chopped fillet with exactly the right extras and seasoning. It was also served without the patronising explanation that it was raw meat that Parisienne waiters feel obliged to give to Brits.

Mr L moved on to onglet. How we Brits shy from beef skirt but it really is a delicious cut, economical – which means that the portion can be generous – but packed full of flavour. It came with really great chips and sensational confit shallots. The presentation was a little messy but wholly due to generosity rather than sloppiness.

I chose a herb crusted rack of lamb, really delicious and again generous to a fault, the meat tender, pink and juicy, the fat trimmed fine and the crust packed with herbs rather than bread. A side order of peas was better than I had dared to hope, simply perfect.

For dessert Mr L had an iced parfait which he made short work of whilst I ate my pud with all the delicacy I could muster. Isle flotant is my all time favourite but a dish that can be hideously wrong. Poached meringue in the wrong hands can taste like foam rubber. This was like a delicate cloud of sweet nothing bobbing in a fine custard that had a rich egginess. I ate it as slowly as I could, not wanting it to stop.

L’Eglise certainly hit le spot for me, it took me back to being 20-years- old, the smells of Paris, hot butter, sugar, vanilla, garlic… We stayed and chatted, tried more delicious and unusual wines and generally had a very good time indeed. Prices were sensible too, nothing scary and especially when you see that the portions are generous, robust even.

The rotating list of daily dishes looks very tempting and there is a set lunch menu at £11.95 for two courses. Already busy and finding a regular clientele L’Eglise looks destined to become a broad church with a very hearty congregation.

Click here for full details of the fantastic value lunch menu!

L’Eglise, 196 Church Road, East Sussex, Hove
01273 220868

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